Caribbean's spice island An aromatic visit to Grenada, land of beaches, history--and nutmeg

Gouyave, Grenada--Gliding into one of this island's many tranquilports, it's hard to imagine anything beyond the smell of the sea, thehum of boat engines and the rhythm of the fishermen. But away fromthe lap of the turquoise waters lies a lush interior of greenmountains, wooden houses, waterfalls and dense nutmeg-scentedforests, which give Grenada its nickname, "Spice Island." Grenadaoffers visitors white sand beaches in the capital of St. George's;posh hotels that overlook the bay; delicious Caribbean cooking;rugged hikes through mountains; charming guest houses; great scubadiving and history. Grenada, however, is perhaps best-known for thebloody 1983 coup that prompted the …